Monday, May 11, 2009

Leaving Colombia: What I will and won´t miss

10 Things I will Miss
  1. Costena + Limon chips + Bipin
  2. Lina and her apartment/kitchen (she is my Colombian mom slash Bipin´s girlfriend, still not sure how he pulled that one.
  3. Liz (burritos and doughnuts)
  4. Large guns and the military
  5. looking up and seeing beautiful green mountains every day
  6. Sunday explorations of the city
  7. Me and Bipin´s bench in Parque Nacional
  8. Marches, political grafiti and Activism
  9. Riding local buses, that smell are hot, and always full
  10. Colombian women
10 Things I Won´t Miss
  1. My shitty ass apartment (however I will miss the balcony)
  2. Techno music, blasting from the gay bars downstairs every day off the week. I could honestly feel it in my bed.
  3. Rain
  4. Pollution
  5. Not having hot water
  6. Climbing the hill to Liz´s apartment
  7. drying my laundry outside
  8. displaced people, & all the effects of the war
  9. AIESEC Colombia (I´m a patient person, but my experience with AIESEC Colombia mostly included delays, immaturity, excuses, no salary, no visa, and drama)
  10. Having to pre pay for my cell phone minutes, and then receiving a thousand spam text messages every day

Cigars & Socialism (7 days backpacking in Cuba) Part 2

I appologize for the lack of usual photo flare, but my poor laptop had to be left behind in Bogota, along with all of my digital imagery. In other words, all updates from now on will be made from junglesque internet cafes.

After leaving Havana are first morning in Cuba we imediately got lost, even thought we had bought a 20 page intensive road map. We then thoguht it a good idea to pick up a random Cuban and let him direct us back to the correct highway, where he immediately demanded 20 CUC. (More than his monthly salary) We asked him if he thought we were born yesteday, gave him a buck, and told him to get out. Wasn´t he trying to hitch-hike and hadn´t we just driven him like 15 klms?

We spend the remainder of the day, passing horse drawn carriages, and incestantly asking for directions. I doubt we went 50 klm without getting lost in some fashion. (There are no road signs!!!) After a quick afternoon swim in the turquoise ocean, we headed inland for what was one of the most memorale afternoons of the trip. The main reason we had rented the car, was so that we could see a little of the real Cuba. Between Verdadero on the coast and Santa Clara in Central Cuba, we crossed through at least 10 little towns, where people stared at us as if we were ghosts. These were farming towns, with decades old tractors, zero street signs and very few automobiles. As Andras likes to say, the Cubans were all busy practicing the national sport. ¨Scratching¨In each town the ¨highway¨would suddenly end and we would have to ask how to get to the otherside, where it continued. We were definitely passing more horses than cars, most of which were other rentals (every rental in the country is one of two or three models in the same color) or 1950´s boats. I could have counted the number of cars on two hands. On certain strips of highway we wouldn´t pass a car for 40 Klm, so instead of pulling the car off the road for a piss we´d just leave it parked acros the middle.

In Havana the locals had told us the trip to Santa Clara would take under 3 hours, but immediately after doing the calculations, we realized these people had probably never been there, or many other places outside of the capital. After about six hours of driving, we finally pulled into Santa Clara.

[SIDE NOTE]
I´m writing this in Leticia, Colombia a week out from my trip to Cuba. It´s a very strange sensacion, but Leticia appears in many ways to be just another small pueblo in Cuba. I almost got caught thinking I was still in Cuba as I first left my hostal to begin exploring the amazonian town. After passing the Massive police station, Military base, and Naval base, and heading down a few more happening streets my senses kicked in. (Leticia is tiny I mean you can walk from one end to the other, but once again there are almost as many soldiers and police officers than there are residents. Not that I don´t feel safe here, but I immediately realized that I´m in a border town in a developing capatalist country, which brings with it a lot of things. Unlike in Cuba where there is honestly zero crime or povert, nor much organic contact between locals and tourists, in Colombia you are immediately hit by all of that. THe homeles in the streets, indigenous people blacked out and beligerent. Every one trying to make a buck off of you. Everywhere I look military and there is probably a reason for that. (Although this is not the first time this has happened to me in Colombia, but the guy sitting across from me in the internet cafe is a soldier with a gun)
[SIDE NOTE WITHIN A SIDE NOTE]
#1 Don´t drink in the amazon without eating. Although you don´t realize it, just by sitting outside, you are dripping sweat, and you stand up after one beer (like I just did) and you almost fall off the dock into the river. #2 There only seems to be scooters and taxis in this town, and every second one has a smoking hot barely clothed chick on the back, or driving. Is there anything better than a hot Colombian riding around on a scooter? Especially when its hot out and you have a cold beer in your hand. Apart from the girls I have also seen numerous families of four riding together, and what appeared to be a two year old standing on the gas tank between his dads arms.
[END SIDENOTE]

We finally made it to Santa Clara, where the last battle of the revolution was fought just in time to see the town streets flooded with fashionably dressed teenagers. I´ve never seen so many namebrands in my life. Don´t think Fidel would be to happy, with the youth of his country showing off NIKE, ADDIDAS, HOLLISTER, ETC ETC. If you haven´t seen it already check out the new Che Movie, which has great scenes from this town. Starved after a day of driving, we began searching for some fast food or a restaurant. Not easy to do outside of Havana. I swear we found one chain fast food place in the country, called El Rapido. Which was the equivalent to the shittyest 7 -11 in the US. With luck we found the hot spot where all the teenagers were eating. The place, this was a full blown walk in spot, with a good location and no name. However the menu was vast. MENU: Food - hot dog, hot dog, with ketchup, hot dog with mustard, hot dog with both mustard and ketchup. Drink - One type of beer, local cola. I went for a hot dog and beer. The dog was terrible, but the beer was cold. It was Sunday night so I asked a local why everyone was in the streets hanging out and drinking. I mean I thought people would have work or school on a Monday. She responded that they were trying to strenthen their Socialism and that Sunday´s were the bussiest night in town. I still don´t know what a typical work week in Cuba conists of, but suposedly it doesn´t include Monday.

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Happy Bdays / Mother's Day'sn

Wish I could be there with you guys. Especially to see dad's face as he cruises around on the now operational ride-on-lawnmower. Since I couldn't ship the flowers or the cubans, I figured I'd at least take photos. I hope you guys are having a great weekend, and I will talk to you soon! Happy Birthday Waz & Happy Mother's day mum!!!!




I'm leaving Bogotá in a couple hours, and not sure if I'm excited or sad. I guess the thought of humidity and mosquitoes for a week is making me miss Bogotá before even leaving. I miss you guys and will get in touch asap.

Wish me luck,

Scotty

Thursday, May 7, 2009

READ THIS BOOK

If you want a serious look at the contemporary Drug war in Colombia (violence, guerillas, paramilitaries, U.S. aid, coca/cocaine/cultivation/production/distribution, & the effects on urban & rural populations) please read Beyond Bogotá by Gary Leech. His work intertwines his unbelievable experiences in Colombia (he's been kidnapped by both the FARC and AUC,) with his unparalleled investigative reporting to create both an entertaining read and a crucial source of information on the conflict plagued country.
While the rest of the world has been reading government talking points reported by the mainstream media in Bogotá, Leech has been doing life threatening investigative journalism that provides the most penetrating look at Colombia I have ever come across. Definitely check it out!

Sunday, May 3, 2009

Cigars & Socialism (7 days Backpacking in Cuba) Part 1



Before we begin, a little political and economic background information.

In Theory:
Communism is a socioeconomic structure and political ideology that promotes the establishment of an egalitarian, classless, and stateless society based on common ownership and control of the means of production and property in general. Decisions on what to produce and what policies to pursue are made democratically allowing every member of society to participate in the decision-making process in both the political and economic spheres of life. The idea that a modern country or state is actually communist is impossible, being that one of the basic characteristics of such a system is the elimination of the government. [True communism has never existed in a modern state and probably never will. However some indigenous groups, who have remained isolated from the developed world practice real communism, without even knowing what it's called]

Socialism is the stage following capitalism in the transition of a society to communism. It's associated with a broad set of economic theories of social organization advocating state ownership and administration of the means of production and distribution of goods, and a society characterized by equality for all individuals, with an egalitarian method of compensation. Key theorists Marx and Engel predicted that socialism and communism would be built upon foundations laid by the most advanced capitalist societies. The healthcare systems of developed countries such as Germany, the UK, Australia, Canada, and Japan are examples of countries moving towards a more complex capitalism where a country's economic success is used to benefit everyone. A form of Socialism is what exists in Cuba, and socialism is the exclusive term used by Cubans to describe the sociopolitical system in their country. *Yet the implementation of socialism in a country that has not developed an advanced economy or democracy, leads to a unique and large set of problems. Cuba DOES NOT have the socialism depicted by Marx and Engel that might develop from an advanced capitalist democracy. Cubans do not even try to depict themselves as a real communist society.


The Confusion Between Cold War Communism/Socialism and the Philosophical Idea of Communism
The understanding of communism that most Americans have does not come from the socioeconomic philosophy outlined above, but from the 20th century states (USSR and China for example) who labeled their governments and economies as communist, although they usually operated/operate under a one-party system, where inequality and oppression were/are wide spread. In these countries, fewer and fewer people have/had any say in how the economy works and many civil liberties are taken away. These governments use the promise of "real communism" to initially gain the people's support, but when the harsh realities of trying to mix undeveloped economies with communist politics come to light, the system deteriorates, and in the many cases leads countries to return to a capital driven economy. *The one exception would be China, where the one party system has been able to monopolize all political control, and use a centrally planned CAPITALIST ECONOMY to modernize. Therefore China is FAR from being a real communist country.

In Conclusion:
If you have a problem with Soviet Russia, China, Venezuela, Bolivia, Vietnam, or Cuba DO NOT say it is because they are communist, because they're not. Learn about those countries and criticize them for what they are or were. I have plenty of criticism for Cuba, and the rest of the countries who have not chosen American style free market capitalism, but it is not based on a false classification of those country's economies or governments.

Here's a good example of how to criticize what many Americans would call a communist country:

I dislike the Chinese government, because they are undemocratic, and because there system is devastating the environment and doing little to improve the lot of average Chinese citizens. I would never criticize China because it's communist. BECAUSE ITS NOT.

Now to the stories....

The biggest obstacle in traveling to Cuba, is trying to understand the economy. How do you pay for tickets, where can you stay, how much money will you need. Because of the US blockade of Cuba, American credit cards and debit cards can not be used at all, not to buy plane tickets, not to get money out of the atm, nor to reserve accommodation or car rental. If you are European with a lot of money, these issues are irrelevant, and in reality the tourist economy of Cuba is set up for these types of travelers. As a backpacker with a small budget based in American financial institutions things are much much more difficult. Every single part of my trip had to be paid in a foreign currency, that I brought with me from outside the county, (I was unable to withdraw a cent while on the island.) In the end me and boys (I travelled with Bipin & my roomate Andras) had to withdraw Colombian pesos from our bank accounts, exchange that money into Euros (in Colombia) and then exchange that money into Cuban Convertible currency (CUC) and Cuban Pesos (CP) upon arrival.
Cuba has two currencies, one of the most damaging and ridiculous things about the country, and the source of all of our problems while traveling there. There is one currency for the Tourists and one for the locals. The tourist currency is worth approximately one dollar and equals 25 of the local cuban pesos. By having these tow currencies, the country has developed two separate economies, two types of everything. The locals can see the things that can be bought with CUC, premium beers, cigars, cigarettes, ice cream, transportation, but cannot buy them unless they can find a way to get their hands on CUC. They are paid a monthly amount of CP that is equals about 20 CUC. When a tourist class beer costs 1 CUC and a tourist class meal costs 5 CUC, it becomes obvious that they cannot afford it without additional income. It becomes comical when the budget traveler like myself is doing everything possible to buy things in the local economy (ex. local beer 30 cents/10 CP) while the local Cuban is desperately trying to get his hands on the expensive CUC valued stuff. Because tourists are forced to pay for most things in CUC, Cuba becomes a very expensive travel destination. Well at least compared to the rest of Latin America. We each budgeted 300 dollars for our trip and I brought an extra 100 for gifts and safety. When Bipin lost 300 dollars or 1/3 of our money (remember we have no access to atm's or our foreign bank accounts) things became very interesting. Bipin is the most responsible 29 year old I know.
We got to the airport in Bogotá three hours before out flight (yeah totally not my style) only to learn that our Russian airplane was grounded in Cuba getting maintenance. The flight to Cuba from Colombia only occurs once a week, so we were seriously wondering why one week was not enough time to prepare the plane for this weeks journey. Luckily being gringos (Bipin excluded) that speak Spanish, we were able to convince Cubana airlines to put us on the only other flight to Cuba that day, going through Panama City. They made sure that all of the other stranded latinos who had planned to fly to Cuba had no idea we were getting this preferential treatment.
Unfortunately we did not have the pleasure of testing out russian aviation technology, and arrived in Cuba at Midnight on a Copa airlines flight. I swear to god the captain was American, his Spanish announcements over the PA system were in the most embarrassing thing I have ever heard. My first experience with Cuba was customs, and it was not exactly a pleasant one. In the Havana airport Customs is not a open process. You walk into a small office with a door at one end and three cameras starring at you. You can see where you came from, but cannot see anyone else in the offices next to you, nor do you know what's behind the door ahead of you. Customs immediately wanted to know what an Indian, a Hungarian, and an Australian were doing arriving together in Cuba at 1 in the morning. We explained that we live together in Colombia, but that seemed to confuse the officers (who did not have uniforms just name tags) even more.
Eventually we made it out of the arrival terminal and began to arrange our rental car. I don't know why, but throughout the whole trip I totally forgot the fact that you can't bargain on most things, you can't check the competition, because the prices are all the same and set by the government. So upon realizing that all of the rental companies had the same cars (even the same color) and the same prices, we began filling out the paper work. By about 1:30 we got into our tiny pugeout which the rental employee called the Boxer, do its extensive body damage. Without a map, but with a Cuban cigar in hand, we left the airport to try and find our accommodation in the city. What a disaster.

First and foremost, street signs are practically non existent in Cuba. We guessed this when upon leaving the airport the lights of the first sign we saw were angled entirely wrong. Instead of having them shine up at the sign, they were pointing straight out blinding anyone trying to read. We also quickly learned that Cubans speak a horrific Spanish, something similar to what Colombians speak on the northern Coast. So when trying to listen to directions we were hearing things such as "RETO" for straight instead of the actual Spanish word "DIRECHO". Nonetheless our Cuban Spanish for giving direction is now almost perfect. An hour later we finally reached Havana Vieja, the old part of the city where we were staying. And honestly there is nothing like Havana Vieja at night time. I swear you feel like your in Berlin at the end of World War Two. I was almost expecting Mortar fire, and fighter planes to roar over head. It's totally shocking. The stores are empty, half the building are gutted out or falling down, and the architecture is monumental and magnificent. Being a relatively well travelled guy, I think that nothing can really shock me, but honestly I was walking around with my mouth wide open, saying "holy fuck" Because it was Saturday night, the streets were still alive, with young Cubans loitering everywhere. I still don't know if half the girls in Cuba are prostitutes or just dressed that way. The feeling I got, was that you could pay any girl on the street to come home with you, even if she was standing with her boyfriend or mom when you found her. By about four in the morning we decided we better get to bed, and the owner of the house we had organized (full set of gold teeth, gold rings and chains) told us he would put us up in his neighbors place because his house was full. In Cuba, accommodation in a "casa familiar" (government sanctioned accommodation for tourists) costs 10 CUC.




Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Driving in the Andes (Uncle Ron & The Gringos Part 2)

After leaving Giron, still in pain from our "Mountain of Meat" lunch, we grabbed a cab into a mostly deserted Bucaramanga. Buca is a really nice city, much like Cali, very suburban, warm climate, a bit of a relief from the crowded polluted streets of Bogotá. Although me and the boys had eaten a platter of close to three pounds of meat for lunch, by the evening we somehow thought ordering Colombian Chinese food was a good idea. My stomach was real slow to forgive me after that. Following a quiet night in our hostal we woke up on good friday to pick up the Mazda truck we had rented.
I might have been acting like I was real confident about the rental, but getting behind the wheel of a car in Colombia was a little nerve racking. Luckily Easter Friday around Colombia = zero traffic, so we jumped in and took off for the mountain roads outside Bucaramanga. I had originally planned to rent an economy car, but in the end we were forced to rent the truck and it was probably the best thing that could have happened to us. A four wheel drive four door, with a covered bed, it made for a smooth and confident ride with plenty of room for our bodies and backpacks.
I don't drive stick to often, so it was lucky Matty is really confident with the manual. We spent our first morning in the truck crossing the magnificent Valle de Chichamocha. I have honestly never seen anything like it. A river valley carved into the center of the Colombian Andes, it lies between to sheer mountain peeks and is utterly breathtaking. It is also home to the most impressive Chairlift I have ever seen. Lying on the Southern peak, a visitors center has been built, where you can catch a ride all the way to the bottom of the valley and back up the other side. I'm sure it drops more than 3,000 feet on each side, and the one way trip looks like it would take 4o minutes or so. Unfortunately there was a 3 hour wait so we drove on, tuning in and out of various Colombian radio stations.
We drove into San Gil, our destination for the day, at about 2 and found the town overrun with vacationers. We checked into our great little hostal, (packed with 20 something Colombian girls) and then got back into the truck as quickly as possible. I had heard amazing things about a tiny colonial town about 20 minutes back up in the Mountains, so we decided we would escape the madness, and spend a nice afternoon wondering the cobble stoned streets. Baricharra did not disappoint, and is honestly the nicest colonial town I have ever been too. In the dictionary next to the word "picturesque" should be a photo of this town. Packed with artisan stores, galleries, and boutique hotels, every turn was a photo op. We had planned to drive back before dark, but were enjoying ourselves so much (due to wine and delicious food sponsored by the Coopersmith family) that we hung around until nearly 8. Heading back into San Gil, we figured we should rub shoulders with some of the locals, so we immediately bought another bottle of Rum (# 12???) a bag of ice and some cups and headed to the central plaza. The rum in Colombia is amazing, no need for coke, very smooth. Rum in spanish is Ron, so we began calling our escapades time out with uncle Ron. Uncle Ron also helps you to sleep, when Hostals get roudy late at night. Upon reentering our hostal we learned that the other occupants had decided to form a ten person live band in the hallway, but upon placing head to pillow we fell right to sleep.
We woke up Saturday morning, knowing it was our last day of the trip, and that we had about 400 kl of Colombian highway to cover. Although we spent the whole day in the car, a majority of it with me behind the wheel, I think it was one of the best of our trip. The scenery, was stunning, hours of lush mountains, valley, rivers, and farms, with plenty of quaint towns in-between. The path back to Bogotá marked the same rout of the Colombian war of independence so we stopped every so often to take in the sights, snack, and buy souvenirs. If you were to judge Colombia's road safety on this one route, you would think it has the most secure highways on the planet. I swear we went through 47 military and police checkpoints in a matter of 6 hours, however surprisingly we were never once asked for id or asked to fully pull over. I'd say it was the perfect day cruising the countryside, except for when we let Nicole be in charge of navigation for a brief moment in the late afternoon. Supposedly she wanted to create her own route to Bogotá, that didn't include a single town on our map, but ended up being quite nice. We rolled into the capital at about 8 o'clock and returned the truck without incident. I really couldn't believe it.
We capped off our tour of Colombia with a trip to a Mexican restaurant about 6 blocks from my house. Not just any Mexican restaurant but the sister restaurant to a famously questionable spot located in the heart of Mission Beach San Diego where we all lived during college. It's crazy but Sara's (thats the name of the Mexican restaurant) which is a walk up window in San Diego, with marginal food, seats about 80 people in Bogotá and has a kitchen that is four times bigger than the whole restaurant in San Diego. I have met the owner and he said that he left San Diego a couple years back after divorcing his wife so he could run the much larger location in Bogotá. He says that he doesn't miss life in California one bit. In the end the trip was pretty flawless, and I think all my friends left Colombia with a new understanding of what this country has to offer. I myself will be leaving Colombia in a few weeks, and know that it will be a very sad day.
Check back in the weeks to come, for pics and stories from my trip to Cuba. We depart in our Russian airplane tomorrow morning.

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Uncle Ron & the Gringos

The most exciting times for me in Colombia have always been when family and friends come to visit. An opportunity to convince a few more people that Colombia is #1 safe, #2 beautiful, and #3 a great place for a vacation. It's also fun to watch as my visitors struggle to navigate Colombia without much more than a few Spanish phrases. In the end I'm usually responsible for negotiating all transactions, which typically makes things easier as there is less discussion. So far I have had the pleasure of my dad coming to visit twice, (I'm sure his motivation is only partially me), as well as my mom, sister, Rich, and Alison. Last week, known as Semana Santa in Colombia, Jordan, Matty, and none other than Nicole Moffatt came for a 10 day adventure. This was my first chance to do some real traveling with friends from home, needless to say, I was very excited. As was the case with my parents trip in February, I was surprised to learn, that my friends were confident enough to let me plan their entire time in Colombia. And once again I think I shocked my guests with a relatively well planned, well executed, Colombian tour de force.

The Crew, all friends from college, arrived around the same time even though they were coming from three different parts of the US. (San Diego, Las Vegas, & Washington DC) We spent two nights and a day in Bogotá, quickly taking in the sights and having a LONG night out at Andres Carne de Res. Andres cannot be easily explained, but imagine an absolutely overwhelming western themed restaurant/club packed with about 500 people (including some of the most beautiful women in Bogotá) . A night at Andres usually starts around 6 oclock with a 1 hour van ride to the outskirts of the city and some Colombian booze. Thats how we kicked things off on Saturday, and the night didn't end until 3 in the morning. What we momentarily forgot that night was the fact that we had a 7 am flight to Santa Marta the next morning. Thanks to Nicole we made our flight, not exactly feeling chipper.
For the first leg of our trip I decided to take them to Colombia's Carribean Coast, where I spent six months living last year. Santa Marta's 90 degree heat at 9 in the morning, combined with massive hang over's and a 45 minute jungle hike to the beach, all contributed to a relatively rough morning. Luckily there were four of us so instead of taking the hour and a half bus ride to Parque Tayrona from the airport we rented a cab for the 40 mile trip at about 4 bucks a pop.
memorable than that tough morning, were the next two days we spent "sipping" rum, swimming in turquoise blue water, and sleeping in hammocks. They were two of the best days I have spent in Colombia. Unfortunately for Matty they almost lead to sun poisoning (I have never seen someone burn their hands so badly)


Sporting massive sun burns, we caught a bus to Cartagena where we spent Tuesday and Wednesday night. Exhausted from the sun and the bus ride I took the crew to have a few of my favorite street dogs and about 25 mini cervezas. Our Hostel had accidently given away our room, even though I reconfirmed 5 hours before arrival, but as is to be expected in Colombia, the manager let us sleep in his own room, with a great air conditioning. Hostels in Colombia always attract an interesting crowd, and Cargtagena was no different. A lot of partying going on there.
great day wondering the old city walls and the San Felipe castle and we were ready for a little more rum. We woke thursday morning slighty hurting but ready for the next leg of our adventure.

Arriving at Cartagena's quaint airport, we were surprised to find that our puddle jumping airline had discontinued the flight I had booked to months back. As is usual in Colombia, the airline went out of there way to fix things up, and we were on board the first of our three shoe box sized airplanes by 10:30.
was the smallest airplane I have been on in Colombia, and that is saying something. My friends were a little worried that we wouldn't get a chance to visit Medellin, but I assured them that one of our three plane flights of the day would touch ground in Colombia's infamous city.
being on about 10 puddle jumpers this year, I'm still not comfortable on these flights, so I enjoyed our decision to pass the flights playing rock paper scissors and I-spy. The other people on board thought we were crazy.

early afternoon we landed at Bucaramanga's deserted airport. How the main airport for a city of 5 million people can be ABSOLUTELY deserted is beyond me. Our cab driver was great and dropped us off in a small colonial town outside of the city center. It was here in Giron, that we found Colombia's klu klux klan members marching towards the town's central plaza. Obviously these people weren't white supremacists but supposedly the American KKK robbed their fashion sense from Colombian catholics. To be continued..........